You can cut your lawn care costs this year by watering 1 inch a week in one or two deep sessions, mowing at your grass type's recommended height, fertilizing after a soil test, and handling routine jobs yourself. Water, product, and labor bills all shrink. None of it thins the turf.
The EPA's WaterSense program reports that U.S. households use nearly 8 billion gallons of water outdoors every day, mostly on landscape irrigation. The average home uses more water outdoors than on showers and laundry combined.
Your sprinkler probably hits the driveway a few mornings a week. Fix the aim, measure the output, and you'll pay less while the grass grows deeper roots.
How Much Water Does Your Lawn Really Need?
Most grass types stay healthy on 1 to 1.5 inches of water a week, rain included. Affordable lawn care starts with a handful of empty tuna cans set around the yard.
Run your sprinklers for 20 minutes, then measure the water in each can with a ruler. Sometimes one can holds a quarter inch and another holds a full inch, and that tells you a sprinkler head needs adjusting. Early morning watering loses less water to wind and heat.
A screwdriver works pretty much like a cheap moisture meter, since it slides into moist soil with little effort and resists dry soil. Of course, you can skip a cycle after a solid rain.
Can Smarter Mowing Cut Your Fertilizer Bill?
Yes, and the savings start with where you set the mower deck. Each grass type has its own height range; for example, 2½ to 3½ inches for tall fescue and 1 to 2 inches for bermudagrass.
Mowing at the upper end of that range builds deeper roots. Mowing below it tends to let crabgrass move in, so staying near the top works as cost-effective weed control. Never remove more than one-third of the blade in one mow.
Typically, a rotary blade needs sharpening two or three times a season, and a clean cut leaves fewer brown tips. Leave the clippings where they fall. They contain about 4% nitrogen, and a lawn at least 10 years old can often skip one fertilizer application when you mulch mow.
Let a Soil Test Guide Your Fertilizer Budget
A soil test costs about $10 to $25 at most university extension labs. That small fee belongs at the top of your lawn care budgeting, since it stops you from buying nutrients or lime your grass doesn't need. Test established lawns every two to three years.
Next, shop for discount turf supplies in early spring and compare the price per pound before you buy. A standard report from an extension lab usually covers these items:
- Soil pH, which shows how well roots can reach nutrients
- Phosphorus and potassium levels
- Organic matter content
- Lime and fertilizer amounts matched to your grass
Which Lawn Jobs Should You DIY, and Which Should You Hire Out?
Handle the weekly jobs, such as mowing and watering, yourself. Hire out equipment-heavy work, like core aeration or dethatching, when you lack the tools.
If you do hire a company, collect at least three quotes. Some professional crews lower their own costs with rebate programs, for instance, the Green Dividends Early Order Program, which pays qualifying turf professionals rebates on certain products ordered early.
Ask each company for these items:
- A written price for each service
- A discount for paying the full season upfront
- A bundle rate for weekly or annual contracts
Is Your Lawn Layout Costing You Money?
Some parts of a yard cost more to maintain than others. Steep slopes and deep shade make for quite expensive spots, since grass struggles there and the mower and sprinkler still visit every week.
Swap those areas for groundcover or mulched beds, and you'll see landscape savings in water and mowing time. A 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch in garden beds holds moisture and holds back weeds.
Reseeding time is a good moment to switch species. A variety that suits your climate and sun pattern needs somewhat less water and fertilizer.
Frequently Asked Questions
When Is the Best Time to Take a Soil Test?
Fall works well for established lawns. Testing then leaves you plenty of time to apply lime if your pH runs low. Actually, spring sampling works too, and Ohio State Extension lists both seasons as fine for established sites, but labs tend to be busier in spring.
How Do I Collect a Good Soil Sample?
Basically, you want a sample that represents the whole lawn. Pull eight to ten cores, each 3 to 4 inches deep, from different spots. Mix them in a clean bucket, then send one scoop to the lab. Keep lawn and garden-bed samples separate, since each needs its own bag.
Should I Water a Dormant Lawn?
A little, yes. Nebraska Extension suggests about half an inch a week for dormant Kentucky bluegrass, starting after three weeks without rain. Warm-season grasses follow different schedules, and your local extension office can confirm the details.
Is It Okay to Mow Wet Grass?
Wait for the grass to dry. Right after rain, wet clippings clump on the lawn, and mowers cut wet or tall grass poorly. If rain puts you behind, just raise the deck for the first pass and lower it a notch at each mow after that.
Is Evening Watering Okay?
Evening is a poor choice for most lawns. Iowa State Extension says watering in the evening or at night can raise disease problems, since the grass stays wet for hours.
Early morning, roughly 5 to 9 a.m., is the best window, as water soaks in with little loss to evaporation. Skip windy days, too, since strong wind carries spray onto driveways and sidewalks.
Spend Less on Lawn Care and Keep the Green
Lower lawn care spending comes down to a handful of habits. Water deeply once or twice a week and measure it with a tuna can. Mow at your species' recommended height and leave the clippings.
Test your soil every two to three years before buying fertilizer or lime. Hire out only the equipment-heavy jobs, like aeration. Each habit is cheap or free, and together they trim your yearly bill while the turf holds its color. Pick one this week, put it on your calendar, and let the savings add up.
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