AFRICAN SAFARI Pt. 3: Seronera River Valley
Posted: 3:28 pm EDT June 27, 2007
We started out early again this morning and reaped the benefits. The weather is cool and, within the first forty minutes, we saw such a variety of active animals including giraffe, zebra, impala and topi. Warthogs were running with their tails straight up in the air, very cute to see, but we’re told it’s a sign of alarm. There were more wildebeest, Hadada ibis flying overhead “laughing” or so their call sounds to me, and Helmeted guinea fowl which is a very common bird. Four vultures were sitting in the top of an acacia tree looking like candles on a cake!We head toward the Central Serengeti today and the Seronera River Valley, an area known for sheltering the elusive leopard, a lion pride and cheetah. The area is also more heavily visited so we should also see more tourists traveling in vehicles such as ours.We spot our first lions, probably a mating pair, just off the road at the edge of a green, tall grass area. We stop and our vehicle, in effect, separates them. While he rests comfortably beneath a tree to our left, she watches from the cover of the grass on our right. We watch in fascination and snap pictures, deciding she is about 3 years old and he about 5 years, based on their size and coloring. We’re pleased to see that, although he has some scars from past tangles, they both appear to be in good health. She is not coming out while we sit there so we move on. Unfortunately, their encounter is probably still delayed because two more vehicles pull in as we move out.A line of vehicles parked with traveler’s heads poking out of the open tops likely means a sighting. We move closer to them and spot the cheetah they’re watching as it appears to relax in the grass beneath a tree. But cheetahs hunt during the day and this one is watching a herd of Thompson’s gazelle on the other side of the road. As we watch, it crosses the road and begins to stalk one of the Tommies. This is awesome to see! We lose sight of her in the grass and, in that instant, she streaks to attack. We never even see it. We spot her about 20 yards away and she’s got her kill. I feel sorry for her as she eats because she appears very nervous, constantly looking about. Peter tells us she’s watching for vultures or hyena. If they spot her, their behavior could tip off any lions that are nearby. While lions hunt at night, they might be happy to relieve the cheetah of its prize.Usually, Peter spots and points out sights for us to see. We dub him as having “bush eyes” because he seems to do this so well. This time, however, I spot lions and they’re in a tree! A mother and her cub are each lying on a limb of a sausage tree. They’ve got a great view of the surrounding flat area from their position. After ten minutes or so, the mother jumps down. The cub clearly wants to follow but is uncertain. It looks down and after her while it moves about on the branches, then it finally takes the leap itself. They both disappear into the grass.The next morning we’re off to look around the nearby kopjes, large rock outcroppings that arise from the plains. There are many of them in the Serengeti and the larger groups have names and serve as great landmarks. They also serve as great lookouts and cub-rearing locations for lions. Sure enough, we see a number of paw prints in the dirt and then we find a pride of lions resting on top of a kopje. They’re spread out so they have at least a 180° view between them, and they’re resting or sleeping. We see 2, no 4, no 6 lionesses, including one very pregnant and cranky one. The others seem to take her complaints in stride. Then we realize that one of them is collared, a sign that she is included in a scientific lion study. And behind her appear three very young cubs! Two of them play a bit, but the third never comes completely out of the brush. Rounding out the pride is a sub-adult male sitting a little distance away, taking in his own view of the kingdom.We now turn our focus toward finding a leopard. They are night hunters like the lions and usually spend the day resting in a tree. So we drive through a wooded area searching the sausage trees for a dangling leg or tail. No leopard sighting and it’s time to return to camp as it is getting dark.We are not discouraged. How could we be? We’ve had a great day! Every one has been different and complete with new experiences. It’s like layering a cake or parfait. Each layer is delicious on its own, but when combined, wow!On the way back to our camp, Gene spots an animal ahead. It began to cross the road, then turned and went back toward the brush. It’s a leopard! We watch as it moves away now, with graceful strides into the darkness. No time for a photograph, but we all saw it. We spent all afternoon looking and here it appears before us as a gift! Thank you, or asante sana, leopard.
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